4 more images of Peru and a look-back post

Not quite ready with the selections from October's edit but this should wrap up Peru (and September).

Peru 2.4

Peru 2.4
Near our fishing village, a pre-Incan ruin that is layers and layers deep after generations of kings buried the monuments of the previous generation, then decorated the new larger monument in their own motifs. Fascinating, with superb, well-preserved art.

Peru 2.3

Peru 2.3
Yes. Wall-sized. See Peru 2.2 below.

Peru 2.2

Peru 2.2
Really looking forward to seeing this image of Huanchaco life projected to wall-sized.

Peru 2.1

Peru 2.1
The markets of Peru are alive with colour. It was our first month of our year-long tour so tried desperately not to shop. Mailed a box home as soon as we left Peru.

Peru was the right place to begin a year's travel

Peru was an eye-opener of a place to launch our trip. It’s a little difficult to remember all the things that went through our minds as we settled into our year off during that first month of leisure. But I recall being sharply aware of the need to travel differently than any previous travel we’d done. This was a year off, and there was no way any person could spend that many days in full-on explorer mode. You have to stop and let the time pass you by. And you have to do that surprisingly frequently. You can bully your way through the strenuous two days of climbing Mount Putukusi and neighbouring Machu Picchu after a big bad bout of altitude sickness, but there are serious physical limits in the longer term. I speak now from a position of clearer understanding. Our first major steps on returning home were health care – Karen to a naturopath to fix her digestive tract, me to the family doctor to treat a knee injury. Now the knee MRI data is in and it turns out that a year of stress to one’s knees doesn’t necessarily cause ligament damage. At least not in my case. Instead, a year of daily strain (and about a dozen mountain climbs) results in bone injuries – extensive bruising and a small fracture to my left femur. My knee may take as long to heal as it took to cause the damage. And Peru was a powerful dose of knee wear with which to begin our year’s adventure. About two-thirds of the way through our year off we began to look back at Peru and comment that it was a good thing we’d done Peru first, because at that point we didn’t feel capable of the mountain exploits we’d done back in September. Now, a full year later, I have similar thoughts regarding the year off. I don’t think I could do it again. I certainly can’t do it again in the condition I’m in now. The effects of aging isn’t the point of this piece but I had to get past that to get to the wind-down in Huanchaco. While Machu Picchu was one of the icons that we built our year off around – the others were Easter Island (up next) and Angkor Wat (towards the end) – the lazing away of days and weeks in Huanchaco is the travel style that we wanted to perfect. Later, we executed a nearly perfect down-time dropout on the island of Koh Phangan, where we spent 33 days doing as close to nothing as two people can manage. In Peru, we spent almost half our month in Huanchaco. It is a small fishing village, with little going for it but charm, and we made it our home. By the time we had wandered every street I knew we were successfully living in the moment. That’s a sensation that we are striving for in our travels and, as much as Machu Picchu was a miracle in the mountains, Huanchaco was its own miracle on the seashore. I am more likely to go back there, but that may just be the bad knee talking. We could always bus it up Machu Picchu.

Re-living our tour in photos

A totally unexpected result of travelling for a year (unlike any other number of months) is that we are re-living the experience month by month as we sort photos. It's September now so we have spent weeks sorting and editing our Peru pictures. As we build a slideshow of our month in Peru, we are choosing from photos that weren't available for posting during our trip. We carried two cameras but only blogged from a backup point-and-shoot. So, here's the result, a handful of our Peru favourites. We might find a few more before the end of September when we switch to reminiscing about Chile. But first we'll have an essay on Peru, which will be our next text post.



Best of Peru 5

Best of Peru 5
Machu Picchu, Peru: Our second climb in two days began at 3:30 a.m. Fortunately, we stayed near a hot spring where we soothed our legs while waiters brought fruity drinks.

Best of Peru 4

Best of Peru 4
Lima, Peru: Saint Day celebration parade.

Best of Peru 3

Best of Peru 3
Moray, Peru: Terracing at Inca agricultural research site. The varied altitudes of the terraces created micro-climate zones in which the Incas did crop-suitability experiments.

Best of Peru 2

Best of Peru 2
Salinas, Peru: Salt flats in the land of the Incas, still active after 4 centuries.

Best of Peru 1

Best of Peru 1
We took two cameras with us but only downloaded from the backup. So we have 1,000s of unseen photos. Here's one from Sacsayhuaman. This 15th century Inca fort is a 2 km walk above Cusco so Karen is trying to absorb some of the energy from a 7-sided building block. At least it's a distraction from her love affair with her aerosol oxygen can.

Monday, March 1, 2010

a month on one beach - are we nuts?

Bye bye Koh Phangan, we're back in the Cactus Bungalows on Koh Samui where there's an immigration office and we can extend our visas. We're still undecided on our next stop, however, as we continue to watch the Thai political situation. We are extraordinarily cautious and could just go back to Koh Phangan if there's a safety concern. We sure did love Than Sadet beach. It's the first time in our life that we've stayed in one place for a whole month. We weren't bored, although we did very little except read and eat and play in the waves. Even Karen played in the waves. We spent a lot of our time reading in the hammock so we're not as tannned as those who lay on the beach all day. We met millions of Germans. It was weird - 90 per cent of the tourists were German. It got so we could tell the Swiss Germans from the regular Germans and our own English picked up a bit of German phrasing as we spent so much time talking with them. Going to Thailand to learn German, who would have thought? All the Germans were remarkably friendly and welcomed us into their social circles. In smaller groups, they would all talk English to include us. Even when they had a big birthday party, we were invited and although they talked German among themselves, there were always a few talking English with us, late into the night. We exchanged emails with dozens of them and have even thought that we might go west through Germany to return to Canada instead of going east - it's about the same distance. Drinking beer in the ocean was fun and seemed to be the spark that got the Germans interested in socializing with us. The jungle wildlife freaked us out occasionally. We had our own gecko in our room so it's a bit surprising how many insects we had as well. The gecko was the big kind, a foot long, with a head bigger than a golf ball and he was a bright baby blue with orange spots. The thunk, thunk, thunk as he ran across the wall from one corner cranny to another was always worth a smile in the early morning hours. Still, there was other wildlife in our room. Cockroaches, of course, and Bob screamed like a girl when he found a huge millipede when he picked up a Tshirt from the floor. Then there was the hairy spider the size of a hand that kept us on alert when we entered our bathroom. He was actually only there for a few days but our spidey senses were on alert for weeks. Karen had a succession of small health issues, including both kinds of tummy troubles (too fast, then too slow), a wicked fever in between, and a bruised toe that she smashed between the dinghy and the ferry when she was boarding the ferry in high waves. She's all better now, but that was a bit of a bad end to her four-day solo visit to a yoga retreat at a beach a few kilometres down the coast. She went to yoga classes twice a day and ate lots of healthy vegan food, but despite a mostly positive experience, still wanted to reunite with Bob after four days. See, we're still getting along well after all this togetherness. Sorry our last picture is still from Christmas. Soon, soon, we swear.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hallo Karin and Bob, so, you leave Kho Phangan now. Thanks for the good fun with you guys. Im back home in germany, spring ist comming now in frankfurt.

Ich wish you good luck for your trip, see you soon. Your frind Daniel

Anonymous said...

Only one month on the beach? You both are definately not nuts. I'm getting really used to your house; I may let you have it back when (if?) you get back. How does Laos sound? Miss you both. Have a beer or two for me!