4 more images of Peru and a look-back post

Not quite ready with the selections from October's edit but this should wrap up Peru (and September).

Peru 2.4

Peru 2.4
Near our fishing village, a pre-Incan ruin that is layers and layers deep after generations of kings buried the monuments of the previous generation, then decorated the new larger monument in their own motifs. Fascinating, with superb, well-preserved art.

Peru 2.3

Peru 2.3
Yes. Wall-sized. See Peru 2.2 below.

Peru 2.2

Peru 2.2
Really looking forward to seeing this image of Huanchaco life projected to wall-sized.

Peru 2.1

Peru 2.1
The markets of Peru are alive with colour. It was our first month of our year-long tour so tried desperately not to shop. Mailed a box home as soon as we left Peru.

Peru was the right place to begin a year's travel

Peru was an eye-opener of a place to launch our trip. It’s a little difficult to remember all the things that went through our minds as we settled into our year off during that first month of leisure. But I recall being sharply aware of the need to travel differently than any previous travel we’d done. This was a year off, and there was no way any person could spend that many days in full-on explorer mode. You have to stop and let the time pass you by. And you have to do that surprisingly frequently. You can bully your way through the strenuous two days of climbing Mount Putukusi and neighbouring Machu Picchu after a big bad bout of altitude sickness, but there are serious physical limits in the longer term. I speak now from a position of clearer understanding. Our first major steps on returning home were health care – Karen to a naturopath to fix her digestive tract, me to the family doctor to treat a knee injury. Now the knee MRI data is in and it turns out that a year of stress to one’s knees doesn’t necessarily cause ligament damage. At least not in my case. Instead, a year of daily strain (and about a dozen mountain climbs) results in bone injuries – extensive bruising and a small fracture to my left femur. My knee may take as long to heal as it took to cause the damage. And Peru was a powerful dose of knee wear with which to begin our year’s adventure. About two-thirds of the way through our year off we began to look back at Peru and comment that it was a good thing we’d done Peru first, because at that point we didn’t feel capable of the mountain exploits we’d done back in September. Now, a full year later, I have similar thoughts regarding the year off. I don’t think I could do it again. I certainly can’t do it again in the condition I’m in now. The effects of aging isn’t the point of this piece but I had to get past that to get to the wind-down in Huanchaco. While Machu Picchu was one of the icons that we built our year off around – the others were Easter Island (up next) and Angkor Wat (towards the end) – the lazing away of days and weeks in Huanchaco is the travel style that we wanted to perfect. Later, we executed a nearly perfect down-time dropout on the island of Koh Phangan, where we spent 33 days doing as close to nothing as two people can manage. In Peru, we spent almost half our month in Huanchaco. It is a small fishing village, with little going for it but charm, and we made it our home. By the time we had wandered every street I knew we were successfully living in the moment. That’s a sensation that we are striving for in our travels and, as much as Machu Picchu was a miracle in the mountains, Huanchaco was its own miracle on the seashore. I am more likely to go back there, but that may just be the bad knee talking. We could always bus it up Machu Picchu.

Re-living our tour in photos

A totally unexpected result of travelling for a year (unlike any other number of months) is that we are re-living the experience month by month as we sort photos. It's September now so we have spent weeks sorting and editing our Peru pictures. As we build a slideshow of our month in Peru, we are choosing from photos that weren't available for posting during our trip. We carried two cameras but only blogged from a backup point-and-shoot. So, here's the result, a handful of our Peru favourites. We might find a few more before the end of September when we switch to reminiscing about Chile. But first we'll have an essay on Peru, which will be our next text post.



Best of Peru 5

Best of Peru 5
Machu Picchu, Peru: Our second climb in two days began at 3:30 a.m. Fortunately, we stayed near a hot spring where we soothed our legs while waiters brought fruity drinks.

Best of Peru 4

Best of Peru 4
Lima, Peru: Saint Day celebration parade.

Best of Peru 3

Best of Peru 3
Moray, Peru: Terracing at Inca agricultural research site. The varied altitudes of the terraces created micro-climate zones in which the Incas did crop-suitability experiments.

Best of Peru 2

Best of Peru 2
Salinas, Peru: Salt flats in the land of the Incas, still active after 4 centuries.

Best of Peru 1

Best of Peru 1
We took two cameras with us but only downloaded from the backup. So we have 1,000s of unseen photos. Here's one from Sacsayhuaman. This 15th century Inca fort is a 2 km walk above Cusco so Karen is trying to absorb some of the energy from a 7-sided building block. At least it's a distraction from her love affair with her aerosol oxygen can.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Our Own Oz Odyssey

We've been bouncing around Australia for a few weeks, with no plans to do the Big Three touristy bits - Ayers Rock/Uluru (too far), the Great Barrier Reef (Karen can't swim) or climbing Sydney Bridge (too costly). Instead we visited the Blue Mountains outside Sydney, the Adelaide Hills and Tasmania, which allowed us to focus on hiking and wine-tasting, two of our favourite activities. Australia has not disappointed us on those counts, with lots of information about shorter hikes (4 hours max) and wine regions we weren't previously aware of, both of which we have found in Tasmania. Even though we never saw the mountain at Cradle Mountain, and it rained (again) most of the time, we enjoyed the hike around Dove Lake in the drizzle and took lots of macro shots of flowers whose names we have no idea of. That's another thing about Australia: the flora and fauna are completely different. We feel like idiots. We had a fit of giggles the first time a wallaby hopped across the road in front of us - a bit of hysterics over not creating a roadkill mess with our first wildlife encounter. In Adelaide, we had the great fortune to be able to rest at the home of a couple we had met in New Zealand. Thanks Angela and Simon. They had offered their trailer and we had meant to take them up on it for just a few days, but Karen caught a cold and the timing was perfect for her to rest up with short forays into the Adelaide Hills to visit an animal sanctuary and a few wineries. The sanctuary protects native wildlife from imported predators and we hand-fed some eastern grey kangaroos. My, their muzzles are soft. We also spotted a few koalas and heard our favourite quote (from the night-walk guide): "Please don't step on the bandicoots" as the cute little buggers ran around our feet. Tasmania is a small place with oddly long stretches of driving. They warn you about that, but it's hard to believe until you actually drive across the island in one day. It was something like 300 kilometres in 8 hours, with a few stops, obviously. The scenery is so sprawling it's hard to fit it in a photo and outposts of civilization are so small you can stroll through whole towns in less than an hour. Bob splurged in Bridport after we discovered a golf course rated 7th in the world among public access courses. He started early enough in the day that there were wallabies munching on the first five fairways and he didn't see another golfer until the eighth hole. Karen spent the same morning hiking along the coast, shooting photos of the beach boulders covered in orange lichen and losing her way on the poorly marked trail. We are staying through Christmas on a working farm overlooking the Tasman Sea a couple hours north of Hobart. Yesterday we spent a whole day in Freycinet National Park, hiking over a steep mountain saddle to the iconic Wineglass Bay beach. We bought enough groceries and wine to get us through the holidays, which is good because then we don't have to drive that winding gravel road in the rain. There are hikes near here, books to read and wine to drink. Not Christmas as we know it, but not a bad substitute.

7 comments:

Anonymous said...

Have a wonderful Christmas Bob and Karen. We love you and miss you.
Lisa Dave Jackson and Kathleen

Unknown said...

Merry Christmas B&K. Hope you're enjoying the holidays without the snow ... what a concept that would be!!! Hugs & Kisses, Angie, Tim, Season & Jesse.

Unknown said...

Hope you had a wonderful Christmas! We had a steamy, hot and wet XMas eve...with Pete and Teresa in their hot tub, that is! Much fun was had by all. Wishing you all the best and missing you lots.

Love, Rose and Ger xoxox

Anonymous said...

Your Christmas sounds lovely! And you two sound like the bionic hikers from Auz...there'd be no keeping up with the likes of you.
Hope your New Years was just as fun - ours will take place in 8 hrs and counting.
We'll talk to you next year!

Teresa and Peter said...

FYI - that previous anonymous message was from us!

Yes, Teresa has been starting her New Years early...

Anonymous said...

Happy new year Karen and Bob! Can hardly wait to here about it!! We had a great evening of food, wine and the new Star Trek movie with Michael. Awoke to a fresh blanket of snow this fine first day of 2010. Miss you. Love, Jen and Scott

Deni said...

Hey- Merry Christmas and Happy New Year you two! Selu and I toasted to you at midnight (our time - you were already in the next day!) I had a very fun and different Christmas with Sierra, Bryan and Selu in Seattle - but I got Selu's new website up! Miss ya- hope you are having fun.

Deni (back in nice warm Long Beach)