4 more images of Peru and a look-back post

Not quite ready with the selections from October's edit but this should wrap up Peru (and September).

Peru 2.4

Peru 2.4
Near our fishing village, a pre-Incan ruin that is layers and layers deep after generations of kings buried the monuments of the previous generation, then decorated the new larger monument in their own motifs. Fascinating, with superb, well-preserved art.

Peru 2.3

Peru 2.3
Yes. Wall-sized. See Peru 2.2 below.

Peru 2.2

Peru 2.2
Really looking forward to seeing this image of Huanchaco life projected to wall-sized.

Peru 2.1

Peru 2.1
The markets of Peru are alive with colour. It was our first month of our year-long tour so tried desperately not to shop. Mailed a box home as soon as we left Peru.

Peru was the right place to begin a year's travel

Peru was an eye-opener of a place to launch our trip. It’s a little difficult to remember all the things that went through our minds as we settled into our year off during that first month of leisure. But I recall being sharply aware of the need to travel differently than any previous travel we’d done. This was a year off, and there was no way any person could spend that many days in full-on explorer mode. You have to stop and let the time pass you by. And you have to do that surprisingly frequently. You can bully your way through the strenuous two days of climbing Mount Putukusi and neighbouring Machu Picchu after a big bad bout of altitude sickness, but there are serious physical limits in the longer term. I speak now from a position of clearer understanding. Our first major steps on returning home were health care – Karen to a naturopath to fix her digestive tract, me to the family doctor to treat a knee injury. Now the knee MRI data is in and it turns out that a year of stress to one’s knees doesn’t necessarily cause ligament damage. At least not in my case. Instead, a year of daily strain (and about a dozen mountain climbs) results in bone injuries – extensive bruising and a small fracture to my left femur. My knee may take as long to heal as it took to cause the damage. And Peru was a powerful dose of knee wear with which to begin our year’s adventure. About two-thirds of the way through our year off we began to look back at Peru and comment that it was a good thing we’d done Peru first, because at that point we didn’t feel capable of the mountain exploits we’d done back in September. Now, a full year later, I have similar thoughts regarding the year off. I don’t think I could do it again. I certainly can’t do it again in the condition I’m in now. The effects of aging isn’t the point of this piece but I had to get past that to get to the wind-down in Huanchaco. While Machu Picchu was one of the icons that we built our year off around – the others were Easter Island (up next) and Angkor Wat (towards the end) – the lazing away of days and weeks in Huanchaco is the travel style that we wanted to perfect. Later, we executed a nearly perfect down-time dropout on the island of Koh Phangan, where we spent 33 days doing as close to nothing as two people can manage. In Peru, we spent almost half our month in Huanchaco. It is a small fishing village, with little going for it but charm, and we made it our home. By the time we had wandered every street I knew we were successfully living in the moment. That’s a sensation that we are striving for in our travels and, as much as Machu Picchu was a miracle in the mountains, Huanchaco was its own miracle on the seashore. I am more likely to go back there, but that may just be the bad knee talking. We could always bus it up Machu Picchu.

Re-living our tour in photos

A totally unexpected result of travelling for a year (unlike any other number of months) is that we are re-living the experience month by month as we sort photos. It's September now so we have spent weeks sorting and editing our Peru pictures. As we build a slideshow of our month in Peru, we are choosing from photos that weren't available for posting during our trip. We carried two cameras but only blogged from a backup point-and-shoot. So, here's the result, a handful of our Peru favourites. We might find a few more before the end of September when we switch to reminiscing about Chile. But first we'll have an essay on Peru, which will be our next text post.



Best of Peru 5

Best of Peru 5
Machu Picchu, Peru: Our second climb in two days began at 3:30 a.m. Fortunately, we stayed near a hot spring where we soothed our legs while waiters brought fruity drinks.

Best of Peru 4

Best of Peru 4
Lima, Peru: Saint Day celebration parade.

Best of Peru 3

Best of Peru 3
Moray, Peru: Terracing at Inca agricultural research site. The varied altitudes of the terraces created micro-climate zones in which the Incas did crop-suitability experiments.

Best of Peru 2

Best of Peru 2
Salinas, Peru: Salt flats in the land of the Incas, still active after 4 centuries.

Best of Peru 1

Best of Peru 1
We took two cameras with us but only downloaded from the backup. So we have 1,000s of unseen photos. Here's one from Sacsayhuaman. This 15th century Inca fort is a 2 km walk above Cusco so Karen is trying to absorb some of the energy from a 7-sided building block. At least it's a distraction from her love affair with her aerosol oxygen can.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

in case you are worried about Thai protests

We have been on Than Sadet beach on Koh Phangan island in southeast Thailand for a month. You can't get any safer than that. We are avoiding Bangkok where protests would concentrate. Meanwhile, we are thinking of visiting the far north of Thailand. Fortunately, there are direct flights that don't connect through Bangkok. On March 1 we plan to go back to Koh Samui to extend our visa. We'll have more to say once we get back to the land of high-speed Internet.
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Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Even paradise has internet access - if infrequently

Now this is a real time limit. The generator only runs till 4 p.m. and it's 3:34 so we'll see how far we get. We've crashed at Than Sadet on the east coast of Koh Phangan where the roads are horrid dirt tracks through the jungle and most transport is by rickety ferries or (even scarier) long-tail boats. We seem to have caught the "don't wanna leave" fever that everyone gets here. There's not much to do but we're coping. It seems we pushed ourselves a little harder than we thought for the first five months and now we're just resting. Plowing through books like mad. Lying on the hammock deciding which restaurant to eat at. We are on a small cove. The beach is lovely, 200 paces long and capped at each end by huge, rocky headlands with bungalows scattered all over them. Climbing up the stairs seemed excessive for us (Karen's legs were wrecked) so we grabbed a bungalow 10 metres from the beach. Actually, our first bungalow was 20 metres from the beach but we moved over one when our German neighbours moved up the hill. Did we mention we're paying $13 a night and we can watch the sun rise over the ocean without getting out of bed. Actually, we hardly have to lift our head off the pillow -- a good example of how we're living here. Just heard that Bob's mom and dad are going to Bali in April, so we're sorting out what bits of southeast Asia to see before we visit them and what bits to see afterwards. But more and more we're talking about coming back here. We swear we'll post some pictures soon but we have to arrange to be at the computer when the power first comes on, not when it's about to shut down. Met our first Canadians in a long time when half the town of Campbell River, B.C., popped in for an afternoon. That brings to mind our other major hobby - watching the ferry plow into the sand and calcuting the net gain or loss among long-time visitors leaving and arriving. The day-trippers don't count for much as they only crowd up the beach for a few hours. Two dozen people on the beach is a crowd. Often there are a handful or less. Food is great but we have to keep it down to one wonderful but extremely hot curry at a time. We don't miss the hawkers on the beach (none here) nor the restaurant touts trying to drag you inside (none here). Bob had a great birthday a few days back. Beers, swim, walk, whole fish dinner and a birthday cake ordered special from the big town on the other side of the island. The generator's about to shut down so we will as well. Good to hear from anyone who leaves a comment. Anyone who doesn't leave a comment is
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